Jamdani (Bengali: জামদানী) is a fine muslin textile (figured with different patterns) produced for centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district in Bangladesh on the bank of Shitalakhwa river. The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. Under British colonialism, the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. Jamdani is typically woven using a mixture of cotton and gold thread.
In Persian, “jam” means a type of fine wine, and “dani” means a cup. The name Jamdani originates from the muslin worn by the Iranian Saki while serving the jam. Artisans celebrate Jamdani sarees for their intricate and artistic weaving, using traditional motifs that embody deep cultural and historical significance. They name each design to reflect unique patterns inspired by nature, daily life, and traditional aesthetics.
For instance:
- Tercha: Diagonal patterns.
- Jalpar: Mesh-like design resembling water ripples.
- Panna Hazar: Thousand emeralds, signifying geometric precision.
- Shapla Phul: Lotus flower motifs.
- Mayurpachpar: Peacock feather patterns.
- Jasmine: Motifs of jasmine flowers.
- Hansbalaka: Swan-like designs.
The Mughal period marked the golden age of Dhaka muslin. During this time, both domestic and international demand for muslin and Jamdani surged, driving significant advancements in the industry. In the eighteenth century, English records reveal that authorities appointed a high-ranking official, the Daroga-i-Malmal, to oversee muslin collection, focusing on varieties like Malmal Khas and Sarkar-i-Ali. Offices registered skilled weavers, such as Nardia and Ripukar, for each loom. Inspectors actively supervised the various stages of muslin and Jamdani production.
During that period, Dhaka exported muslin-khas worth approximately one lakh rupees to the Mughal court. Historical records from 1847 show that prominent figures like the King of Delhi, the Nawab of Bengal, and Jagat Seth purchased Jamdani valued at around five and a half lakh rupees. European traders also bought muslin worth roughly nine lakh rupees. However, by the late eighteenth century, muslin exports plummeted. After the East India Company took control of Bengal in 1765, its representatives exploited weavers for their gain, often resorting to violence if the weavers refused to sell their cloth at reduced prices. Eventually, the company introduced laws to curb the mistreatment of weavers.
After Bangladesh gained independence, the government extended financial assistance to the Jamdani weavers in Demra, Dhaka. The looms of Bajitpur and Jangalbari in Kishoreganj, once vibrant with activity, now stand as silent reminders of their former glory. Today, the establishment of Jamdani Palli in Noapara, Rupganj, has played a crucial role in preserving and continuing this traditional craft. Jamdani remains a sought-after choice for various occasions, and its high price and increasing demand have reinvigorated the industry in Bangladesh.
There are many types of jamdani sarees. However, initially according to the material of Jamdani saree, it is of two types.
1.Half Silk Jamdani – The horizontal threads are cotton and the longitudinal threads are silk.
2.Flower Cotton Jamdani – Made entirely of cotton yarn.
3.Flower Silk Jamdani – Made entirely of silk yarn.
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